This dish is a little time-consuming but well worth the effort. It’s also endlessly adaptable – use different cheeses, add a layer of roasted red peppers or whatever you fancy under the rice, throw in a handful of finely chopped herbs, make it as individual tartlets (as in the recipe I adapted for this).

Pastry

250 g plain flour
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp grated Parmesan
125 g cold butter, diced
2 egg yolks (whites reserved)
2 tablespoons of cold water

In the bowl of a stand mixer with a whisk attachment fitted, mix flour with Parmesan and salt. While the mixer runs on low speed, gradually add the diced butter and mix until it resembles breadcrumbs.

Lightly beat the egg yolks in a bowl with cold water, then add to the flour mixture and stir until it comes together in a ball of dough. Flatten the dough ball into a disc, wrap it in clingfilm and let it rest in the fridge. Remove from fridge 20 minutes before use.

Filling

1l milk
1 tsp salt
300g pudding rice
3 tbsp grated Parmesan
2 eggs, separated
150g grated Asiago

Pour the milk in a large heavy-based pot and bring it to a simmer with salt. Add the rice and let it cook, covered, over a low heat – the time will depend on the type of rice – it must be completely cooked, soft and sticky.

Remove from the heat and stir in Parmesan. Let rice cool completely.

Preheat oven to 180°C.

When the rice is cold, stir in 2 egg yolks and grated Asiago. Add a dash of milk if the mixture is too dry – it shuld be sticky. Beat the 4 egg whites (2 + 2 from the pastry shell) to soft peaks and fold them gently into the rice.

Roll out pastry and line a buttered tart dish. Spoon rice into pastry shell, smooth the top and and bake for 55-60 minutes, until golden brown.

Serve at room temperature with a salad and a glass of dry white wine.